Whenever compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying part of north London.
This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The honour has made the family totally surprised.
“I’m completely shocked,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small restaurant earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.
This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.
In the end, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy texture.
The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.
It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.
Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.
The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.
“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.
Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.
A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.
The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary achievement.
Elena Verhoeven is a tech enthusiast and digital strategist with over a decade of experience in emerging technologies and online innovation.